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Kitchen sink countertop with scrapbook paper tile

The last step for the kitbashed sink cabinet is to add the countertop. I started by cutting 3/16″ x 1″ strip wood to fit on the left and right of the sink.

When I put these in the nook to see how they fit, the piece on the left skewed so the right corner is sticking out. The back left corner must not be square.

I used the disc sander to sand the back edge at an angle.

That works. It’s not quite flush with the wall at the back, but I’ll hide that when I add the backsplash (if it’s even noticeable).

I colored the corners with a black Sharpie in case they’re visible.

Then I started adding scrapbook paper tiles, the same way I did for the other countertops. These are 1/4″ squares cut with a punch. The black ones on the front are folded over the edge.

I thought it would look good to center the white tiles (as shown above), but this would have required cutting almost every tile to fit. Too fiddly.

Instead I laid them out so there are half and full tiles at the edge that meets up with the sink. No picture of this because it came out fuzzy, but I made the little triangles by gluing the tiles on whole, and then trimming the edges with nail scissors.

Here’s how they look on both sides. If I had used slightly taller basswood for the countertop, it would have lined up with the edge of the sink, but I wanted the counter height to match the other cabinets.

(Alternatively I could have used a thinner piece under the sink, so the sink would be sit little lower and would have looked more like an apron sink, but that didn’t occur to me until just now. D’oh.)

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Kitchen sink cabinet drawers

The kitchen sink cabinet I’m making from two Cassidy Creations Oak Washstand kits has decorative trim under the center cabinets (lined up under the sink). At the bottom of the left and right sides, I’d planned to put a plain piece of wood flush with the front of the cabinet.

But this looks weird to me. My brain is asking, “Why isn’t that another drawer?”

I tried setting it back to make it a toe-kick, but this also looks weird. Seems too tall for a toe-kick.

Okay, so why not use that space for another drawer?

But now I have another problem: I’d planned to use thin 1/32″ dividers between the drawers because the drawers would fit perfectly without sanding. I also think they look nice and proportional compared to the 1/16″ cabinet frame. But if that bottom space has a drawer in it, there are now two 1/32″ dividers and one 1/16″ divider. My perfectionist brain couldn’t stand it.

Instead I’ll use 1/16″ dividers between the drawers, and a thin 1/32″ piece at the very bottom. (If I had used 1/16″ there, the space I was left with would have been smaller than the drawers above it, and a smaller drawer at the bottom also would have looked weird.)

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Kitchen sink cabinet continued

Let’s get back to the sink cabinet bashed out of two Cassidy Creations washstands. Here’s where I left off:

Normally, the sides of the washstand are made by attaching long skinny pieces to thin rectangles.

I had planned to use the thin rectangles for the cabinet doors, but since they’re slightly too long, I decided to hold on to those pieces and cut my own doors. I have something in mind for the leftover washstand pieces. I’ll leave you guessing for now.

I have two of these washstands that I bought assembled, and in both of them the pin hinges split the wood when they were inserted into the wood. I used thicker wood for the doors to avoid this (1/16″ rather than 1/32″).

Here are the options I had on hand for the slats on the doors: 1/8″ x 1/32″, 3/32″ x 1/16″, and 3/16″ x 1/32″. The 3/16″ is what I used on the other lower kitchen cabinets, but these doors are narrower — the slats would have taken up most of the door. The 3/32″ looks perfect, but the 1/16″ depth would have been too bulky on the doors. What to do?

Rather than buy some 3/32″ x 1/32″ strip wood (and pay more for shipping than for the wood itself), I decided to cut down the 3/16″ strip wood. I used a piece of the 3/32″ x 1/16″ wood as a template and cut off the excess with a utility knife.

I glued on the vertical slats with the utility-knife-cut edges facing out, so the lines forming the panel would be the straight “factory edges.” Then I measured and cut the horizontal slats to fit between them, again cutting down the 3/16″ strip wood.

Next I painted the cabinet, doors, drawer fronts, and decorative trim.

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